The
Glamorgan Coast Path (1)
The Coast of
Gower
Outline map of Gower with route in red, link
to Gowerton in black. From OS Explorer map.
From the Loughor river which marks the Western boundary of
Glamorgan this route takes you round the coast of the Gower peninsular. You can
either carry on along the Glamorgan coast (Swansea to Porthcawl section to
follow) or take the Millennium Cycleway back to Gowerton where there is a train
station or Loughor where you started. This is not yet an official coast path but the route is on
public rights of way. Most of the way is level but there are some minor
scrambles between Rhossili and Port Eynon.
On the way you will pass castles, some of the best beaches in
Britain, dramatic cliffs, old parish churches, famous caves with prehistoric
links and wildlife in
abundance. For more information on the walk click here.
Map to the start
- OS Explorer Map 164 covers the whole route. Start at SS 56374/98107.
Loughor to
Wernffrwd - 7 miles
The Loughor at high tide from the car park,
New Zealand flax in foreground
Leave the car-park area with your back to the river, heading up
the cottage-lined lane opposite, Ferry Road, with Water's Edge cottage the first on
the right. At the top cross the main road, Castle Street, and Loughor Castle is
on top of the mound opposite. Head left along the road, the Ship and Castle pub
on your left, and after 200 yards turn right into Parc Williams, heading down
the left-hand edge along a tree-lined tarmac path. Leave the park at the bottom
and turn left along the road. At a T-junction turn right - this is Culfor Road.
Continue along this road through housing. As you leave the urban area the road
turns right (see Note below), passes under two bridges and then curves left.
Take care on this road as there is no pavement. Continue until you come to a
junction where you turn right across a bridge. Note: you can avoid part of the
road by taking the bridleway just before the two bridges. This goes in a
straight line - avoid the side paths - and brings you out onto a road - turn
right down the road to come to the bridge referred to above. The bridleway route
is shorter, but muddier and route-finding can be harder - the road is longer and
there is traffic but easier.
After crossing the bridge continue along the road, passing a
caravan park on left. Cross a stone-walled bridge and just after a large white
house on the right take the footpath on the right over a gate, (SS 58034/96708),
into a field. Head along the right of the field to cross a wooden stile, head
slightly left to a metal gate nearly opposite. Go through this and then two
further metal gates. Now head diagonally left to a stile alongside the road.
Turn right to head along the pavement. (2.48 miles, 45 mins, SS 57557/96597). You have a slightly tedious 20 minutes on this pavement although
there are good views across the Loughor to the bridge and the castle mound just
to its right where you started. Just after the Gower Plant Centre turn right through metal and
wooden barriers to head left along a tarmac track, (3.56 miles, 65 mins, SS
55926/96105).
The track later rejoins the main road - continue right along the
pavement into the small town of Penclawdd which has pubs, supermarkets, Post
Office, chemist, fish and chips - even a forge. Toilets are passed on the
left. Follow the pavement, whichever side of the road it is on and then go
alongside the sea wall. There is a large grassy fenced-off area on the left of
the road. After this ends you come to a junction to the right to Crofty
Industrial Estate. Ignore this but take the next right which is a few yards
beyond - Pen Caer Fenni Lane. This village is Crofty, associated with cockle-gathering.
(1 hr 45 mins, 5.68 miles, SS 53012/95484).
Follow this lane passing a small supermarket and Post Office. As
you pass the last houses on the right turn right to take the track just to the
right of a playground, rejoin the road heading right with Llanrhidian Marsh stretching out to the right. You have now left the urban areas and will
not see anything but small villages until you get to Mumbles. Continue along
this flat, fairly quiet road until you get to the small hamlet of Wernffrwd
with two benches on the right opposite St Davids Church on the left - a good
spot for a break. (2 hrs 12, 7.03 miles, SS 51524/94271).
Map of this and next section
Wernffrwd to
Llanmadoc - 7.5 miles
14.62
cumulative
From St Davids Church at Wernffrwd continue along the lane with
the marsh on your right. Pass a road junction on left and keep straight on
towards a village in the distance with a prominent church. The hillock to your
left is Cilifor Top. Cross a cattle grid, the road curving towards
the village of Llanrhidian. When you come to a T junction, cross the road and go through some
brown gates ahead but slightly left to visit the church, entering the churchyard
through a stone stile or metal kissing gate. This is the church of St. Rhydian
and Illtyd (36 mins, 1.93 miles).
Church of St Rhydian and Illtyd at
Llanrhidian
Leave the churchyard via the main exit to the left of the
church. Opposite you will see the pub called the Town Inn and to the right a
telephone box. Head towards the telephone box and take the narrow lane off to
the right passing Cross House, the large white house on right. As the road
curves left, uphill, take the grassy track to the right which descends gently
passing a small shed or garage on right then skirting the wall of the
churchyard. Where the track meets a tarmac lane, head left along the lane
following the waymark sign to 'Weobley Castle 2 kms'. The lane becomes a stony
track passing wooden gates on right then ascending. Cross a stile by a wooden
gate and keep along the left-hand edge of the field. At the end of the field
take the right-hand of two paths, a wooden stile by a wooden gate. Keep to the
left of the next field across another stile by a wooden gate. Head left along a
faint path and cross another stile in a wire fence and a further stile to the
left of a wooden gate. A stile by a metal gate affords views of Weobley Castle
ahead on higher ground. Cross this and keep ahead to another wooden stile to
enter woodland, then cross a stile with a waymark, heading slightly left on a
stony track. After 40 yards take the footpath to the right over a wooden stile
and a further stile brings you into a field. Keep ahead but after 300 yards look
out for a stile on the left, which may not be obvious. Take this and head right
following the waymark direction - this stretch can be quite overgrown in late
Summer. Cross a stile by a small wooden gate and then cross a stony track and a
stile by a wooden gate to enter a field. ( 1 hr 15 mins, 3.8 miles, SS
47724/92845).
Weobley Castle
Head across the field noting the causeway to the right heading
out into the Loughor estuary. At the far left-hand corner of the field look out
for a wooden stile with waymark and enter another field. Head down the centre
of this long narrow field towards the houses of Landimore. Pass a wooden stile
and then a metal gate, another stile but before turning into the final field
turn left following a waymark direction towards a white house with prominent
street lamp and willow tree. Cross a stile to reach a road and turn right. ( 1
hr 30 mins, 4.6 miles, SS 46545/93132).
Follow the lane as it drops down to rejoin the edge of the
marsh, go through a wooden gate to enter the National Trust area known as Cors
Landimore Marsh and continue along the stony track. After about 30 minutes
walking the path eventually curves left towards the houses of Cheriton and
Llanmadoc. Cross a wooden stile with stone wall on left. Now follow the line of
the sea defence wall as best you can - the wall having been washed away in
places. (See note below). As you reach the trees the path curves to the right -
when you see a wire fence crossing ahead look to the left for a stile and
waymark post. Take this, heading uphill with wire fence to the right. Cross a
wooden stile and follow the path to the right across a wooden stile with farm
buildings ahead. Cross a stile at the end of the field and head right down a
hedge-lined path and pass through a wooden gate onto a road. (6.51 miles, 2 hrs
8 mins, SS 45242/93324).
Note: If there is a high tide and you don't fancy crossing where
the sea defence wall has collapsed there is a footpath further back. This starts
at SS 45462/93872 by a stout old ash tree with pale bark, 50 yards to the West of
three large boulders alongside the trackway. The path heads steeply uphill
through the trees, goes through the middle of a farm and then rejoins the route
above down the 'hedge-lined path'.
Church of St Cadoc in Cheriton
Head right down the road with care as there is no pavement to
pass the church of St Cadoc in Cheriton. The road ascends to pass the Britannia
Inn. Shortly after this and just past a road junction turn right into the shared
drive
of some cottages, passing Glenside Cottage on your right, then head right
towards a wooden gate descending on a grass and stony track. Cross three stiles
by wooden gates and then take the right-hand of two wooden stiles to come onto
the edge of the marsh.(2 hrs 31 mins, 7.59 miles, SS 44672/93844).
Map of this and last section
Llanmadoc to
Rhossili - 10.5 miles
25.1
cumulative
Follow the path as it heads out through the marsh for just under
half a mile. Go through a wooden kissing gate and 10 yards beyond turn right
along a grassy track by some pine trees - Whiteford National Nature
Reserve. The
clear wheel-rutted track enters and leaves conifer
plantations three times. The track then emerges from the
trees and peters out (40 mins, 1.99 miles, SS 45122/96170). You can walk to the
right for a few hundred yards which brings you to a bird-watching hide but our
route heads into the open area to pick up a path heading left
with the trees now on your left and aiming for the dunes to emerge on the beach.
The Victorian Lighthouse
With one short interlude our route is now on the beach all the way to Rhossili.
Head left along the beach in the direction of the Victorian Lighthouse which is
accessible but only at low tide. The beach gradually curves left to head towards
Broughton Beach in the far distance. You can take any route depending on the
tides but beware of ending up on a spit of land just heading out to sea - this
section is a little under 3.5 miles. After a while you pass a rocky outcrop on
the left and then a stretch of rocky cliff. At the highest tide point you might
have to scramble over the rocks at the foot of this cliff or just wait for the
tide to retreat. (Alternatively you can head back along the beach and take a
path on the right between a conifer plantation and Cwm Ivy Tor. This brings you
to Cwm Ivy and then Llanmadoc where you can take a road to the right to the
caravan site). Head towards the middle of the
caravan site ahead – the beach is split by a stream which is usually very
shallow and easy to cross although you will find a crossing if you follow it
inland. Just below the caravans at the right-hand end of the beach head up a
concrete slipway. ( 1 hr 47 mins, 5.98 miles, SS 41835/92976).
Looking back across Broughton beach
At the end of the concrete turn right marked by a footpath post, passing the
caravans on your left. Turn right by a large boulder to follow a path along the
edge of the cliff. When you get to a broad grassy area, keep to the right,
taking the slightly stony track which descends but after 20 yards take a narrow
path which forks sharp left, initially heading back towards the caravans before curving
right to head steeply uphill to meet a boardwalk path. Head right along this as
it skirts the cliff edge with fine views back over Broughton Bay. The boards end
by a footpath sign – continue along the clear path. Side paths will take you
to the cliff edge but stay on the main path. When you reach two grey metal posts
on the right, our path curves to the left but you can, from this point, take a
steep and somewhat precarious descent down to Bluepool. Another way of reaching
this secluded beach is via the arch visible at the far end which can be
approached at low tide only from Burry Holms. Continue along the cliff-top path
which later becomes sandy as views open up back to Worms Head. When the path
forks take the right fork heading towards the promontory of Burry
Holms, the
path then dropping more steeply to a rocky area, Spaniard rocks. (2 hrs 15 mins,
7.25 miles, SS 40281/92632).
If the tide is out you can cross over to Burry Holms – there is a good
stopping point at the end but remember this area is cut off at low tide. You
could also drop down to the beach and head right to reach Bluepool beach via the
arch, but, again, make sure you have plenty of time between tides or be prepared
to scramble up the cliffs by Bluepool. The return route heads left along a path
just before you reach the beach, dropping down to the beach after 50 yards. Head
back along Rhosilli beach, a little over 3 miles, passing caravans at Hillend
(see Variation 1 and 2 below), just inland from which is Llangennith,
and then the isolated building, the Old
Rectory. At the far end of the beach
take the steps up towards the houses on the top of the cliff, the path bringing
you out opposite the car park. (3 hrs 17 mins, 10.48 miles, SS 41455/88083).
VARIATION 1: This cuts out the last stretch of beach from Hillend back to
Rhossili. When you get level with the
Hillend caravan site, roughly midway along the final beach and just after a
stream dribbles out along the beach, head through the dunes to the car park and
then up the road towards the entrance to the caravan site. On the far side of
the road by the entrance, go through a wooden gate and turn right to head along
a level track between bracken which passes the caravans on your right. Just stay
on this path, passing the Old
Rectory on your right, the path gradually ascending until you reach the
houses of Rhossili. Turn right to enter the village and return to the car park.
VARIATION 2: If you fancy the stunning views from
the ridge to your left follow Variation 1 but instead of taking the level track,
take a steep route up to the top of the ridge to your right and follow it
parallel to the beach, passing Sweyn's
Howes and St
Mary's Parish Church, until it drops down to Rhossili.
Map of this and next section
Rhossili to Oxwich - 12.3 miles
37.42
cumulative
This section is a mix of upper and lower cliff
walking with the odd minor scramble as you cross the valleys that head down to
the sea. Be careful when walking on the limestone rock which can be slippery
when wet and when walking near the cliff edge which can be precipitate.
From the Rhossili car park entrance head through the car park and at the bottom
take the tarmac path which passes toilets and then a National Trust shop on the
left, heading towards Worms Head with Rhossili sands to your right. When the
track curves to the left, keep ahead across a wide grassy stretch towards a
small, stone building - the old Coastguard Lookout building. You will find tide
timetables posted in the windows if you are planning to cross over to Worms Head
but note that there it is only safe to do so a couple of hours either side of
low tide. (15 mins).
Fall Bay
Now head left along a grassy path between gorse, the path meeting a wall on the
left. (For several miles now the path heads along the cliff-top never too far
from a wall on the left. You will often see paths off to the right which may
simply take you out to headlands from which you will have to return to pick up
the main route.) The path descends, Fall Bay and then Mewslade Bay ahead, and
when it splits you can take either route, the lower one narrower and more
precipitate but allowing access to the beach at the far end. Beyond the bay the
path ascends and crosses the limestone rocks. After a while the path descends
and heads inland. Look out for a narrow path dropping steeply to the right at SS
42205/87476 taking you down to the valley bottom where you will see a stile and
large limestone block beyond. (45 mins, 2.3 miles).
After the stile, take the path to the right of the limestone block to resume
the clifftop route. After a couple of stiles the path descends steeply into
another valley with a gentle scramble up the far side over limestone to resume
the cliff top route. At the top of the next valley where you see a wooden gate,
take the path to the right of it over the fence, the stone wall on your left. A
narrow stile in a stone wall is followed by a small valley with a metal and wood
stile. On a clear day you should be able to see Lundy Island on the horizon to
your right. The path skirts round the head of another valley. (SS 44694/85642).
Cross a wooden stile by metal gate, then another to the right of a metal gate,
the roof of a house now appearing ahead. Cross a wooden stile to the left of a
metal gate which brings you to the top of another valley. (SS 45452/85266, 1 hr 46
mins, 5.64 miles).
From Long Hole looking East on left and West
on right
30 yards after
the stile head right down a grassy path along a steep-sided valley towards the
sea. At the bottom you are at Long Hole cliff. Take the stile to the left where
a wall meets a wire fence and head along with the sea on your right. Cross a
wooden stile then head left following the waymark direction up some steps to
meet another broader path where you turn right. The path continues along the
coast, skirting to the left of another bay, Overton Mere, which is accessible. At the far end
of the bay cross a stile at the right-hand end of a stone wall and continue
around the base of the cliff. Where the path splits follow the main track
uphill, continuing along the top of the cliff towards a granite monument, from
where there are fine views. The ruined building below you is the old Salt House,
once used for extracting salt from the sea. (SS 46742/84454, 2 hrs 15 mins, 6.97 miles).
Left, the Salt House. Centre, looking East
towards Horton. Right, from Horton looking back.
From the monument head inland along grassy tracks which wind through the gorse,
then joining another path where you head right. The path drops down towards
a building, part stone and part white, which is the Youth Hostel. A steep
descent brings you to a track where you turn left, through some trees and at the
next junction turn right, downhill, pass between two wooden gates to emerge by
the Youth Hostel on the edge of the beach. A short way inland from here is the
village of Port
Eynon. Unless you are visiting the village, head left along the beach - or
take the route just above the beach - leaving it towards the far end by a prominent white post on the edge of
the dunes. Pass the RNLI building, then turn right so you pass the building
entrance on your right, heading across a grassy area to meet a road. Head right
along the road, houses on your left. Where the road ends take the footpath to
the right, through a wooden gate. The path is at first hedge-lined then opens up
and continues just above the shore for several miles, tall cliffs to your left
with occasional small beaches and bays to your right, crossing numerous stiles
and a couple of plank bridges. Ahead is Oxwich Point and as you approach it the
path starts to ascend then levels, curving around the headland and then heading
inland with the wide sands of Oxwich Bay becoming visible along with views all
the way down the coast of Glamorgan. A stile brings you into Oxwich Nature
reserve. After steady progress towards the beach the path starts to climb, then
descends and after a tantalising glimpse of the beach through the trees, heads
left again, uphill. The path winds to the top via a couple of flights of steps
with a field visible to your left plus trig point. The path re-enters the
woodland then meeting concrete steps crossing ahead. Turn right down around 250
steps to the bottom where you turn left, passing the church of St Illtyd on your
left, along a path which becomes a road with the Oxwich Bay Hotel on your left
opposite which you reach a gap in the stone wall on the right giving access to
the beach. Keeping stright on brings you into Oxwich.
(SS 50211/86331, 4 hrs, 12.32 miles.)
St Illtyd's Church
Map of this and previous section
Oxwich to
Caswell Bay - 9.05 miles
46.47
cumulative
This section is a mix of beach and cliff-top,
less remote than the last section, and passing the more popular Gower beaches.
Looking back along Oxwich Bay
Head along Oxwich sands noting on your left the beach-side buildings including
a shop selling ice-creams and teas in season and a toilet block. There is a long
stretch of sand but how far you can get along the beaches depends on the tides
with prominent cliffs projecting into the sand and preventing further progress.
The route assumes the tide is in but if it is not you can get potentially to two
further beaches and when you can go no further take one of the many sandy paths
up to get back on the cliff-top route. With the tide in, leave Oxwich beach
around SS 52223/87799 some 200 yards this side of the first rock face and take any
sandy path which brings you to the cliff-top, then head right along a path. (SS
52456/87953, 38 mins, 1.86 miles).
3 Cliffs Bay looking East at left, West at
right with Oxwich beyond.
Cross a stile on top of the first headland,
Little Tor, and continue on cliff path. Just past a stone building on right
continue to take a path which skirts round the top of the cliff avoiding paths
which head inland to the left or down to the beach on the right. The next
headland is Great Tor. The path skirts round with fine views before heading
inland. 200 yards past a large mound on the right take a sandy path which
descends to the beach on your right, Threecliff Bay. As you descend look ahead
to note the stream, the Pennard Pill, which runs across the beach. In Summer,
after dry weather, you can ford it as it may only be a few inches deep. In
Winter and after rain it may be a couple of feet deep in which case approach it
from the left and cross by the stepping stones. Head for the far end of the
beach by a warning notice where sandy paths head up the cliffs. Struggle up
towards the left of the paths, briefly onto a boardwalk, and at the top head
right to intercept a major boardwalk and head right along it as it again skirts
round the headland, the golf course to your left. The boardwalk descends into a
sandy valley - at the bottom, cross (SS 54141/87898) and ascend the far side to
get back on the cliff top. Note: heading left along the main boardwalk
would have brought you to Pennard Castle.
Pennard castle left. View from castle down
to the meandering Pennard Pill, right.
Continue left along a flat, grassy stretch,
heading towards some houses. You can either walk along a tarmac lane in front of
the houses or continue along the grassy/stony paths to the right of it. When the
road curves left by a car park - continue straight ahead across the grass and
then, when the road rejoins from the left, either go along it or take the
cliff-top paths on the right. The paths and road eventually converge as the
housing on your left thins out and at a bend in the road you come to Hunts Farm.
(SS 56468/87155, 1 hr 53 mins, 5.6 miles)
Just past Hunts Farm take the footpath signposted
to the right which descends and then ascends. Continue along the cliff top with
the remains of a stone wall to your left. On the far side of the headland,
Pwllldu Head, the path starts to descend with fine views ahead of Pwlldu bay and
Caswell Bay beyond. The path become a stony track (muddy after rain). At SS
57228/86616 by a waymark post look uphill to the left where you will see a
wooden stile. Cross this and follow the footpath signs to cross another stile,
through a field to a metal gate with stile on left, into woodland and then a
metal gate by buildings on the left. 30 yards beyond take the vehicular track
descending to the right. Just before a gate marking the entrance to a house take
the path to the right that descends towards Pwlldu beach, becoming sunken in
places. The track emerges opposite a garden wall. Head left and just beyond the
end of the wall left again towards a footbridge. Cross this and keep ahead on
the path, the stream on your right. Join a track and head uphill. (SS
57411/87232, 2 hrs 25 mins, 7.25 miles).
Footbridge at Pwlldu, left. Pwlldu Bay,
right.
As the views open up to your right take the
waymarked footpath down to your right which then skirts to the left above the
beach. Keep ahead as you cross a path heading right down to the beach. After a
stile, the path gradually ascends before curving inland with Brandy Cove on your
right. Cross a stile with the path curving round the top of this small bay
before continuing along the coast. The path eventually curves inland with the
beach and buildings of Caswell Bay becoming visible. Keep on the main path (in
2005 the path down to the beach on the right was closed for safety reasons) to
the left of the buildings to emerge on a road with buildings either side. Head
along this to reach a busier road and head right down into Caswell Bay. This road
eventually reaches a car park by the beach with toilets, a telephone
box and refreshments (in season). (SS 59339/87717, 3 hrs 5 mins, 9.05 miles)
Map of this and next section
Caswell Bay
to Mumbles - 4.97 miles
51.44
cumulative
Typical cliff-path view, between Caswell and
Mumbles
Take the stony cliff path behind the ice-cream buildings heading towards the sea
signposted Langland Bay and Mumbles. After a few hundred yards you will see a
footpath sign up some steps to the left heading uphill. Our route carries on
along the path but you can take this footpath if you want to gain some height.
At the top turn right to skirt round the cliff top with the golf course on your
left before dropping back down just before Langland Bay. Otherwise stick to the
main path which eventually curves inland towards Langland Bay. If the tide is
out you can drop down and cross the beach to the far end. Or stay on the main
path which passes in front of the beach huts until half way along the beach you
get to the Langland Bay Resort Office, behind which are some toilets. (SS
60762/87428, 32 mins. 1.67 miles).
Left, looking towards Langland Bay. Right,
looking back at Caswell bay.
Continue along the path which takes you past a large apartment block under
construction in 2005 via a covered walkway. Then turn right to emerge on Rothers
Tor beach - the Rothers Tor cafe and restaurant is open for much of the year and
there are toilets here. Take the clear cliff path again around this headland,
the path eventually reaching a road. Carry on along the pavement passing
Bracelet Bay and then a car park on the right with more toilets by the large
restaurant complex. This takes you to a second car park. At the far end where
the road on your left curves sharply to the left turn right onto a small car
park and at the far end drop down some steps with the Mumbles Pier below you. (SS
62997/87411, 1 hr 11 mins, 3.87 miles)
Left, the 'mamelles' and lighthouse. Right,
the pier with Swansea Bay beyond.
At the bottom are more cafes and toilets. Turn left to head through a car
parking area with the vast expanse of Swansea Bay ahead and to your right. Keep
ahead along what becomes a promenade with pubs and cafes in increasing evidence
to your left. Oystermouth Castle can be seen above the buildings. Pass Tivoli
Amusements on your left and a large toilet block brings you opposite the centre
of Mumbles and the end of the Gower Coast path. (SS 61643/88190, 4.97 miles, 1 hr 32
mins)
Oystermouth Castle
If you wish to return to North Gower from here, keep ahead along the promenade
for another 1.7 miles. Just after a Texaco Garage and before a Shell Garage
cross the main road to follow the waymarked Millennium Cycleway, by Deren Fawr
road, which takes you all the way to Gowerton. If you are carrying on along the
Glamorgan coast keep going along the promenade to Swansea. A route to get you to
Porthcawl will follow on this website at a later date. A short way beyond the
toilet block is a bus stop.
Map of this and last section
